Easy Crochet Small Gift Bag
Finished size approx. 5.5” by 6”
By Anastacia E. Zittel
Anastaciaknits on ravelry
Needs about 1.5 ounces worsted weight yarn
Size G hook
Yarn needle to weave in ends
Gauge: about 3 stitches to the inch, but doesn’t matter so much as it’s a gift bag!
In 2nd chain from hook, sc. Dc in next ch, sc in next ch space. Repeat across. In last ch space, make a sc & a dc. Do not join in a circle. Working in opposite ends of the chain, continue sc & dc across. In last ch, dc & sc. Do not join, but work in continuous rounds for rest of pattern.
Next & following rounds: dc in sc space, sc in dc space. Keep repeating in pattern for
desired height of bag, minus 1”. I worked for about 5”. End with a sc on one side of bag.
Eyelet row: ch 1, skip dc, sc in next space. Continue around. End by dc in sc space.
Next round: sc in ch 1 space, dc in sc. Repeat around. Do not join; continue working in
established pattern for one more row. End off on side, sl st in next sp, and cut yarn.
Weave in ends & enjoy!
Feel free to make as many of these as you like for local craft fairs & bazaars, but please
do not sell finished items online or the pattern itself. If making for charity, please let me
know which one. Thanks!
Many thanks to MissRach, bjclark63, & ClaireA on ravelry for their work in testing the pattern!!!
If you are just stopping in, please see day one and day two.
Today we are going to decrease.
I’m going to show you how to decrease AND do a color change, all at the same time!
You can see in the above photo the start of the color change. I ended the old color (the pink) and I’m starting the new color, the blue. I have a slip knot on my hook, and I’m slipping it through the chain space.
Here’s the first shell in the new color completed:
And here we are, a little farther along:
Now, when we get to the end of this row, we’ll continue in the same color. So, when we get to the corner, we’ll chain one, turn, slip stitch back the way we came, and in that chain space, we’ll continue shelling across as usual.
If you DECREASE on one side, and continue INCREASING on the other, you’re creating a bias fabric: in other words, a rectangle. If you decrease both sides, you’ll create a square.
Congratuations! You’ve learned how to make a shell stitch, corner to corner afghan.corner
Today I’ll show you how to change colors various ways within the corner to corner afghan. Photos are all clickable if you’d like to see larger views, and any questions please ask me!
So today we are changing colors. There are different ways of doing this. The technique is all the same, it’s the location that’s different – and thus, the finished look.
First – changing colors whenever we run out of yarn. You’ll change colors like any other color change in double crochet:
yarn over hook, insert hook in chain space and pull through yarn (three loops on hook), yarn over hook and pull through one loop (two remaining loops), drop old color/cut old yarn color, pick up new color, yarn around hook, pull through remaining two loops: one loop left on crochet hook. And continue making your shells as usual.
That is my least favorite way of changing colors in this pattern/stitch – it’s OK, but I think it looks a little messy. We can do better.
Change colors as before, but this time, complete a full shell. Instead of slipping into the next chain space with the old color, pick up the next color, and continue with the new color.
My favorite way of changing colors is at the end of a full row, for a nice, clean color change.
Finish your last shell with your old color, but in the last double crochet of the shell, change colors. Now chain 6 with the new color, and continue as usual.
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Diagonal Shell Stitch Corner to Corner Afghan Tut
By request, here’s how to make the corner to corner shell stitch afghan. All photos are clickable.
Use any yarn of choice, and appropriate size hook. I’m using scraps of worstened weight yarn and a 5 mm hook. Finished size can be adjusted depending on how big you make it (which is why it’s a favorite pattern of mine) or how much yarn you have, etc.
In fourth chain from hook, make one double crochet. In the next two chains, make one more double crochet in each of the two chains. This means you have the turning chain where you skipped your first few chains, and 3 double crochets. This forms your first shell block.
Make one double crochet in the fourth chain from hook & in the next 2 chain spaces.
Now, turn that first shell a bit, and slip stitch into the very first chain space (where you skipped the very first stitches). Chain 3, and make 3 double crochet into that chain space.
Do you see what we are doing? Each row adds one more “shell”.
Chain 6, double crochet into the 4th chain from the hook & into the next two chains. Turn work, slip into chain space that you skipped on the row before. Chain 3, and make 3 double crochets into the same chain space.
Slip into next chain space, chain 3, and make your 3 double crochets as before.
And just keep going, for as long as you want, changing colors whenever you like/run out of yarn.
The rest of this series will include how to turn the square into a rectangle, and how to do the decreases.
Uses just over a skein of Knit Picks Crayon, 100% pima cotton.
50 grams/128 yards.
Hook: Size F or size to give gauge
Gauge: 3 sts=1″
Scrap of plastic canvas, in color to match yarn or piece of cardboard (for brim)
about 30″ thin elastic
Foundation Row: Ch 2, 6 sc in 2nd chain from hook.
Rnd 1: Mark beg of round, crochet 2 sc in each sc around.
Rnd 2: Make 1 sc in first sc, 2 sc in next sc, work around.
Rnd 3: sc in first 2 sc, 2 sc in next sc, work around.
Rnd 4: sc in first 3 sc, 2 sc in next sc, work around.
Continue in established pattern, keep increasing every round until circle is 9.5″ across.
Work even for two rounds.
Decrease round: Sc in the next two stitches, dec next two stitches, work around.
Work even for four rounds. Do NOT end off!
Sc in next 15 stitches, mark place, then work back across 15 stitches just worked. Sc into last sc from first round and sc into the original round. Work back across all stitches just worked, sc across end of rows, and work sc into original round. Continue back and forth until brim measures size desired, or about 3″, ending with a sc on original row. End off.
Second piece of brim: Ch 16, work one sc in each chain across. Work back, and work 1 sc at end of row. Work back, and work 2 sc at end of row. Work back and forth, adding sc at the end of rows. Work until same size as brim on hat. End off. Weave in end.
Cut piece of plastic canvas or cardboard to same size as brim. Work 1 sc into each sc in both pieces of hat, and continue working around hat, work 1 sc in each stitch across. Cut long tail, and sew the seam of the hat brim carefully on the inside.
Take piece of elastic and weave into stitches of the decrease round. Pull snugly to fit, tie, and weave in ends.
My mom’s modeling the hat, by the way!
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Toe Up Cable-Look Socks with Reverse Dutch Heel
4 ounces of Paton’s Classic Merino Wool, Color 240 leaf green, or 4 ounces of any worsted weight wool
5 – Size 4 dpns, or size needed to obtain gauge
5 sts = 1” over st st
Cable Rib Pattern:
Rnd 1, 2, 3: k2, p2 across
Rnd 4: Insert right hand needle into first two stitches on left hand needle and k1, but leave sts on left needle. Insert right hand needle into first stitch on left hand needle again and k1 and slip the 2 stitches off left hand needle, p2, and repeat across.
Increases – I used lifted bar increase (M1) , but use increase method of your choice.
Rnd 1: Beginning at toe, cast on figure 8 method 4 stitches on 2 needles.
Rnd 2-3: Work even.
Rnd 4: Increase every other stitch and at the same time, divide onto 4 needles, 4 stitches each needle.
Rnd 5-6: Work even.
Rnd 7: On each needle around, (k1, m1, k2, m1, k1) – 24 stitches total.
Rnd 8-9: Work even.
Rnd 10: On each needle around, (k1, m1, k4, m1, k1) – 32 stitches total.
Rnd 11-12: Work even.
Rnd 13: On each needle around, (k1, m1, k6, m1, k1) – 40 stitches total.
Toe finished, begin leg pattern on top of foot only:
Rnd 14, 15, 16: p1, (k2, p2) around, but end last repeat with p1.
Rnd 17: p1, Insert right hand needle into first two stitches on left hand needle and k1, but leave sts on left needle. Insert right hand needle into first stitch on left hand needle again and k1 and slip the 2 stitches off left hand needle, p2, and repeat across, but end with p1.
Repeat fake cable pattern until foot measures length desired minus 2.5”.
Rnd 1: Work across top of foot in pattern (needles 1 & 2). On needle 3, k1, m1, k across rest of needle. On needle 4, k across to last stitch, m1, k1.
Work even for one row.
Repeat last two rows for desired gusset area – I worked 6 increases on either side of foot for a total of 12 increases and 12 rows.
Heel will be worked over sts on Needle 3 and Needle 4, starting on Row 1, below.
Row 1 (wrong side): slip first stitch, purl across next 14 stitches; on next needle, purl 5. Turn
Row 2: (right side): slip first stitch, knit across next 9 stitches, turn.
Row 3: Slip first stitch, purl across next 9 stitches, turn.
Repeat rows 2 & 3 three times more, and then repeat row 2 once more.
After knitting last row, you will continue along the side of the flap and pick up and knit 5 stitches on the side of the flap.
Slip first stitch, purl back the 5 stitches you just picked up, the next 10 stitches from your flap, and pick up 5 more stitches along other side of flap – 20 purl stitches. You are left with your original 20 stitches from the bottom of your foot, and gusset stitches to be decreased away.
Sl first st, k1, slip 1 across to last stitch of the heel, and decrease last stitch along with one stitch from gusset.
Turn, and purl back, decreasing last stitch of heel with one stitch from gusset.
Repeat these two rows until all the gusset stitches have been decreased away and you have only 20 stitches.
Knit across the two needles you have been working on, work across the top of your foot in pattern, and continue the pattern around the leg.
Knit even in pattern for desired length of leg, minus 2” for ribbing.
K2, p2 around. Bind off loosely, using Elizabeth Zimmermann’s sewn bind off, or other bind off of your choice.
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I hook & cotton yarn
Ch 5, join with a slip stitch.
*3 dc in lp, 2 ch*; Repeat * to * 4 times ; slip stitch to first dc.
*(3dc, 2ch, 3 dc) = corner in next sp, 1 ch*; Repeat * to * 4 times ; join with slip st.
Ch 1, sc in every dc around, working 3 sc in every corner.
Feel free to use this pattern to make items to sell at local craft shows & bazaars. Do not sell online. If using for charity, please let me know which one!
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another basic dishcloth pattern
first 5 rounds equals 4″
Need 100% dishcloth cotton
Rnd 1: Ch 2, 6 sc in 2nd chain from hook. Work in continuous rounds, mark beg with a stitch marker & continue.
Rnd 2: 2 sc in each sc around
Rnd 3: 2 sc in first sc, 1 sc in next, rep around
Rnd 4: 2 sc in first, 1 sc in next 2 sc, rep around
Rnd 5: 2 sc in first, 1 sc in next 3 sc, rep around
Rnd 6: Ch 3 (counts as first double crochet now & next round), 1 dc in next 3 sc, ch (counts as increase), do NOT skip sc but in the next sc, dc in next 3 sc, *ch 1, work 3 dc, and repeat around from *.
Rnd 7: ch 3, dc in next 3 dc, ch 1, ** dc in next 4 dc, ch 1, rep around from **.
Final round: work sc in every stitch around.
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Patons classic merino wool – less than a skein will do it
fingering weight mohair – I used vintage mohair
scrap novelty yarn – I used Lion Brand Fun Fur
Size regular (large)
Using size 5 DPN (or do 2 at once ala 2s2c, or magic loop), cast on 24 (28) stitches, with one strand of novelty yarn & one strand of the wool.
Knit 9 (10) rounds. Cut novelty yarn, and turn cuff inside out – I think the fun fur looks better on the wrong side, but keep on the right side if you prefer
Join mohair, and knit plain for 4 inches. Bind off using E. Zimmermann’s sewn bind off, or method of choice.
Please consider making a pair for charity, as this pattern was originally intended.
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